In Tennessee, we met two more great rivers – the Tennessee and the Cumberland – along with a few creeks and marshes. We also picked up the trail of the Western theater of the Civil War. So far, on this trip, I am the most fascinated by the rivers. My photos don’t do them justice. Standing at the bank or on a bridge or crossing on a ferry, the silent, constant movement of the water in one direction conveys a sense of endless onwardness. It’s easy to see how these massive ribbons of watery highways were so vital to the exploration and expansion of this country. And how the gaining control of the rivers was key to the war strategy of the North and maintaining control was the key burden of the South.
Fort Donelson National Battlefield
From our campground near Dover, TN, we crossed over the Tennessee River where Fort Henry was once located to the Fort Donelson National Battlefield located on the Cumberland River. We drove through the park listening to the audio tour on our phone and stopping at the many pull-offs around the battlefield to walk over to a monument or overlook a field or ravine or river to learn more about the events that had taken place in the area.
We ate a picnic lunch at the site where the Confederates disabled an attack by Union gunboats on the Cumberland River.
Ultimately, Grant’s Union troops prevailed. The site of the surrender was the Dover Hotel. The first floor of the building has been restored by the National Park System. It was here that Ulysses S. Grant earned his nickname, “Unconditional Surrender Grant.” Walking by the river landing at the edge of this historic site, it was easy to picture pre-war hotel guests traveling the river by steamboats to this lovely spot on the Cumberland River.
Cross Creeks National Wildlife Refuge, Dover, TN
Before we followed Grant to Shiloh and while we were in northern Tennessee, we visited the Cross Creeks National Wildlife Refuge. Managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, Cross Creeks is part of a system of refuges stretching from the Arctic Ocean to the Caribbean that provide feeding and resting places for migrating waterfowl and birds. During the winter, between 35,000 and 80,000 ducks visit the refuge. Most of the population had already moved on by the time of year we arrived, but we were able to observe lots of wildlife activity including: A group of five blue heron hunting and feeding together and 2 or 3 more flying; 5-6 black vultures; 2 osprey with 1 nesting near to the visitor center; 2-3 pairs of loons; several pairs of wood ducks and black ducks; downey woodpecker; red-bellied woodpecker; titmice; crows; Canadian geese; and possibly a snow goose in the water; and some very entertaining eastern box turtles.
We stopped for a picnic lunch beside a pond and were amazed to watch box turtles emerge one after another from underwater and climb onto partially submerged tree branches to sun themselves. Turtles would line up nose to tail until there was no more room on the limb. Then, the last guy would try crawling onto the other turtles but end up falling into the water. This continued for the better part of an hour with turtle after turtle swimming around and climbing up to the back of the line. What a show!
Montgomery Bell State Park
Outside of Nashville, we stayed at Montgomery Bell State Park along 4 Mile Creek. Several hiking trails wind through the 4,000 acre park and along the creek.
One of the hikes within the park property led to a church and replica 1810 log cabin signifying the founding of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church. We hardly scratched the surface of this beautiful state park and look forward to returning for a longer stay.
Shiloh National Military Park
Near the banks of the Tennessee River, in the southern part of the the state is Shiloh NMP. Named for the Methodist church that stood where the battle took place, this was one of the highest casualty counts of the war and would be surpassed only by Gettysburg. The park is marked with beautiful monuments dedicated to the soldiers involved in this three day bloodbath.
A reproduction of the Shiloh church stands in the place of the original log building.
The National Park Service has developed an excellent and informative driving tour throughout the battlefield with markers clearly denoting the positions of each army throughout the conflict. The Army of the Ohio was instrumental in turning this battle into a Union win. Ohio markers were abundant throughout the tour.
Of all the Civil War battlefields I have been to over the years, this one felt the most somber to me. It shocked the divided nation at the time as well with over 23,700 dead, wounded or lost.
Shiloh Indian Mounds National Historic Landmark
Adjacent to the Shiloh National Military Park is one of the largest preserved prehistoric mound settlements. Believed to be inhabited between 1050 and 1400 AD, this ancient complex on the Tennessee River contains several mounds of different sizes, rectangular in shape with flat tops. A short hike along the beautiful interpretive trail leads from the battlefield to the river and among the tall and massive primitive earthworks of the Shiloh Indians.
The view of the Tennessee River from atop of one of the ceremonial mounds was spectacular. No one knows why the inhabitants deserted this area 800 years ago. Several of the artifacts were on display a the the Tennessee River Museum (our next stop).
Tennessee River Museum in Savannah, TN
Located in a beautifully restored building, the Tennessee River Museum is home to a wide range of items significant to life as it has evolved along the river valley. Collections included artifacts from the Shiloh Indian Mounds, Chocktaw, Chickasaw and Creek Tribes, and Trail of Tears; Civil War letters, uniforms, and battle relics; and a steamboat exhibit.
Leaving Tennessee, we will head into the deep south and spend the next several weeks exploring Mississippi.
Campground Review: Paris Landing/Kentucky Lake KOA
We stayed 4 nights at this very cheery KOA near Dover, TN. The pull thru site was level and the hookups worked without any problems. The staff members were friendly, helpful, and always working around the park to improve the sites. Bathroom/shower facilities were clean and accessed with a security code. Laundry room was also clean with coin operated machines. Large play area for kids plus mini golf and a mining trough. Pool was not open yet at the time of our visit. Well stocked camp store, WiFi available, base sites include picnic table and fire ring. The frisbee golf course makes great use of the property. When thunderstorms were approaching, the staff texted us the locations of the secure buildings on site to use a shelters. We enjoyed our stay in Paris and recommend this park for the customer service, amenities, and location to Ft. Donelson and the Cross Creeks National Wildlife Refuge.
Next up….Regional Eats – Southern cookin’
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