The Wind River Range in the Rocky Mountains is located in west-central Wyoming. The Continental Divide runs along the crest at elevations reaching 12,000 to 13,000 feet. Our base camp in Boulder, WY has an elevation of about 9500 ft. Four huge wilderness areas with a combined total of over 1 million acres, surround the ranching town. Three significant river tributaries run through here (Snake, Yellowstone, and Green) and more than 2,000 mountain lakes, tarns and ponds dot the backcountry. The plentiful hiking trails range from easy day hikes to multi-day backpacking routes to the 2600+ mile long CDT (Continental Divide Trail). The Winds are the where the Mountain Men of the 1840’s trapped beaver and furs and later led the western-ho! wagon trains through the Southern Pass. The cool, clean mountain air, with almost daily thunderstorms, was a complete change from our travels along the dinosaur fossil sites. With bug spray at the ready, we were excited to venture into these rugged mountains.
Thermopolis to Boulder
Heading south out of Thermopolis, we passed the Wedding of the Waters where the Big Horn River changes its name to the Wind River. Because of the warm springs, the river does not freeze and draws a multitude of wildlife into the canyon including bald eagles, mule deer, and big horn sheep. The abundant trout species and whitefish provide world class fly fishing along this stretch of the river as well. Wind River Canyon was one of the most picturesque drives we’ve experienced.
Museum of the Mountain Man
Thoughtfully designed, the museum campus is nestled in the heart of what was once the Mountain Men’s base camp. The main building has a large two-story rotunda. Artifacts and exhibits portray the lifestyle of these independent spirited adventurers as intertwined with the Native American tribes dwelling in the area. Supplying the fur trade companies with coveted beaver pelts and furs brought large groups of tribes and trappers together at the annual Rendezvous. Here the company wagon trains from eastern cities such as St. Louis and Kansas City would travel west to trade commodities for furs. European fashions influenced the demand for fur clothing and accessories. Beaver hats for men created an insatiable market for the Rocky Mountain pelts. The museum features the stories and legends of famous Mountain Men such as Jim Bridger, Kit Carson, John Colter, and Jedidiah Smith. When the fur trade dwindled, many enterprising Mountain Men hired as guides to lead wagon trains of pioneers westward.
Surrounding the museum buildings are restored cabins, sod houses, and shepherd wagons from the early settlers.
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Trappers Point
Overlooking the Green River, Trappers Point presents multiple significant historic sites. Six of the 16 annual Rendezvous were held here in the 1840’s. It is also the site of the Path of the Pronghorn – a spring and fall migration trail for herds of pronghorn antelope. Recent excavations have revealed that ancient peoples used this site as a harvesting and processing center for thousands of years. Currently, it is the site of the Green River Drift cattle trail used by local ranchers to move their herds to summer grazing each year. A few years ago, a state-of-the-art wildlife management system was installed to provide a grassy overpass for pronghorn, cattle, and other wildlife to cross safely over the busy highway that bisects the migration route. And, Trappers Point overlooks the remnant of the network of rivers and streams created by the thousands of beavers that once populated the valley. Fort Bonneville was the first fort built in Wyoming and served the fur trade interests.
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Sacred Rim Trail
Our first venture into the Wind River Mountain trails was the 4.5 mile Sacred Rim Trail at 9240 ft elevation. No matter who we talked to about hiking, this trail was mentioned as if it were a secret for locals only. It was the worst kept secret, but we were able to enjoy about 15 minutes of solitude at the overlook before more hikers caught up. Ground squirrels (look like chipmunks) were playing all around the rocks and were very bold beggars to share our snack. It was an absolutely beautiful trail with mountain streams, flowers, towering pines and incredible views. Secret or not, it was a great introduction to the Winds!
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Highline and Green River Lakes Trail
The Green River is a major tributary of the Colorado River and begins in the Wind River mountains. It flows through Wyoming, Utah and Dinosaur National Park in western Colorado. We have been crossing the Green River throughout the summer so it was exciting to be able to hike to its source. We had a beautiful view of Square Top Mountain and followed a portion of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). We even met a CDT hiker named “Landfilm” on his way south along this 3,100 mile trail. We experienced our first “trail magic” when one of the horse riders we passed tossed Lee a cold beer from his saddle bag! The trailhead is located at the end of an 18 mile very rough washboard road in desperate need of repair. It was very slow going, but the hike was absolutely incredible and worth the challenging drive.
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Boyd Skinner Park
Located near the town library in the center of Pinedale is a beautiful city park with walking trails, fishing ponds and creek side picnic areas. Taking a break from using the WiFi at the library, I took advantage of the sunny afternoon to do a little exploring here. The view of the Tetons and Wind River Range coupled with large green spaces and the gently flowing clear Pine Creek gave the park great beauty. Several foot bridges crossed the creek as the trails wound around the 100 acre property. One part of the trail is lined with framed pages of “The Hike” by Allison Farrell geared towards young readers exploring the great outdoors. It was a very family friendly space for all ages.
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Jackson Hole, WY
About an hour drive north of Pinedale is the resort town of Jackson Hole. The town square contains a carefully landscaped park with huge elk-antler arches at each of the entry points. Located across the park is the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. We had a delicious burger with our Wyoming Whiskey shots. Exclusive retail shops featured in the pages of Cowboys & Indians magazine made great window shopping for jewelry, clothing and mountain gear. With incredible views of the Tetons towering over the busy streets, Jackson Hole continues to be a popular scenic destination for celebrities and sightseers.
Bridger Wilderness Backpacking
The highlight of our time in the Wind River area of Wyoming was a three day backpacking trip in the Bridger Wilderness. Our lollipop loop took us along Pole Creek Trail to Lower, Middle and Upper Sweeney Lakes then to Miller Lake and back to Elkhart Park. We spent time around subalpine lakes and breathtaking overlooks, witnessed the rays of the setting sun color the surrounding peaks in shades of rose and gold, and watched as the stars filled the unobstructed sky. The perfect campsite and absence of mosquitoes added to the unforgettable adventure.
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Scab Creek Trail
Our last hike into the Wind River Mountains started at the Scab Creek trailhead. The trail starts out with a climb and switchbacks to gain another 1,050 feet through sagebrush into a forest of aspen, Douglas fir and lodgepole pines. We stopped for a snack at an opening that overlooked the Green River basin and the distant Wyoming Range. We made it back to the car before the (daily) rain moved in and were greeted with a full rainbow back at the campsite. What a great send-off by the Winds!
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Local Business
The Green River Basin towns of Pinedale and Boulder are also home to several excellent local businesses and restaurants. Wind River Brewery offers a full restaurant in addition to several on-site and locally made beers. Cowboy Country Distillery offers tastings of their full range of whiskeys, bourbons, and maple syrups. The staff at both establishments were very knowledgeable and happy to share information about the history and processing. The Wrangler Cafe was always packed and offered delicious and generous breakfasts. And, Obo’s Market & Deli stocked local beef and deli items with some of the best steaks we have ever eaten! There’s nothing better than being able to shop and support local businesses.
The Wind River Mountains and Green River Basin surpassed our expectations in every way. Hiking, history, wildlife, and natural beauty abound here. We look forward to our next rendezvous with the Winds!
CAMPGROUND REVIEW: Highline Trail RV Park, Boulder, WY
Highline Trail RV Park in Boulder, WY was our basecamp for a month. The large pull-through site included a picnic table and fire ring along with full hook ups. The RV park is located on a working ranch and the busy hosts run several businesses, including a horse and carriage ride rental. Horses are boarded in the adjacent property. Big sky, wide open grassy areas with a few shade trees, and plenty of space between sites coupled with little road noise made this a great place to stay. Laundry, restrooms and showers are large, clean and well maintained. Packages and mail can be received at the office. WiFi and T-Mobile were intermittent. Short drive to several major trailheads.
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Next up… along the Mormon Trail
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