Heading south out of the Wind River Mountains, we followed the South Pass and Mormon Trails through Wyoming, past Salt Lake City, Utah and into Nevada. Pioneer history, ghost towns, and more beautiful hikes in the Basin and Range territory met us along the way.
Lyman, Wyoming
Lyman became our base camp for the next few explorations. Once the site of multiple Mountain Men Rendezvous, the town is close to Fort Bridger, Flaming Gorge, and the ghost town of Piedmont with its famous charcoal kilns. We enjoyed a rendezvous of our own when friends from Ohio met us at the Lyman KOA. Lil’ Sebastian and Lil’ Lulu sure looked great together!
Piedmont Kilns and Ghost Town
Following a winding gravel road for miles and miles past huge Wyoming ranches, we reached an empty crossroad in a beautiful rolling valley. It was the remnant of the town of Piedmont.
Piedmont was a significant stop along the Transcontinental Railroad. The productive charcoal kilns shipped tons of fuel for iron smelting in Salt Lake City. Logging from the surrounding hillsides provided railroad ties as well as raw material for the cone shaped limestone structures to burn and smolder. Burning logs to produce charcoal required days of continuous fire. Vents along the base of the kilns controlled the process and smoke filled the air in those days. There was still a lingering charred wood scent inside each of the remaining kilns. In the late 1800’s, Piedmont was a lively place visited by railroad barons and outlaws and provided housing for crews of the Union Pacific, logging, and shipping businesses. A fateful decision was made in 1901 to build the Aspen Tunnel and bypass the town completely. Without the Union Pacific Railroad to economically ship the charcoal to Utah, the kilns were abandoned and Piedmont faded away. Today, the buildings deteriorate in the overgrown fields of ranches while free range cows meander through the ruins.
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Flaming Gorge Reservoir, Dam, and National Recreation Area
Straddling Wyoming and Utah, the Flaming Gorge Reservoir is formed by an impressive dam on the Green River. It is the largest reservoir in Wyoming and shaped by steep sided narrow canyon walls. Many types of fish thrive here like bass, trout, salmon and carp, which makes this area popular for fly fishing. The dramatic Sheep Creek Canyon Geological Area at the bottom of the river gorge took us past millions of years old rock strata, spires and towers contrasted by alpine forests high above.
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The Mormon Trail
After the collapse of the the fur and beaver trade, many of the Mountain Men became scouts for the wagon trains heading west for prospecting and settlements. A large contingent of Mormons made their way towards Utah from Indiana, carving a route known as the Mormon Trail. Old trappers like Jim Bridger were employed to lead them through the treacherous mountain passes and on to the promised land. Following the Mormon Trail with our own modern day covered wagon, we left Wyoming and traveled into the Wasatch Mountains of Utah.
Deer Creek State Park, Heber, UT
State parks are our favorite campground destinations because they offer hiking trails, spacious camping sites, and some incredible views. Deer Creek State Park gave us all that and more! South of Salt Lake City and adjacent to the Deer Creek Reservoir, we enjoyed access to rocky beaches and quiet trails along the water. Even though this is one of the most popular state parks in Utah, the campground sites are arranged to maximize views of the surrounding mountains and water.
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Ely, Nevada
As we entered Nevada, along the Loneliest Road in America, we continued in the Basin and Range territory of high altitude and low moisture. Ely, Nevada is near Great Basin National Park and was once a stagecoach station, a Pony Express stop, and a spur of the Transcontinental Railroad. Ely preserved a portion of the heritage railway now known as the “Ghost Train of Old Ely.” As in so many towns of the West, Ely began as a mining boomtown and still produces copper today. Ely is a vibrant yet secluded mountain town with art galleries, murals, heritage events, outdoor recreation, rockhounding and much more to explore! Definitely on our must-return list!
Cave Lake State Park, Overlook Trail
One of several hiking opportunities around Ely was the Overlook Trail at Cave Lake State Park. The park usually offers a 32,000 acre reservoir stocked with trout and a fishing pier, however, during our visit, construction work on the dam had necessitated the water to be drained. The resulting wide expanse of wetland reminded us of the Green River area of WY. The Overlook Trail is about a five mile loop that begins with a steep incline through a lush aspen forest and several different ecosystems . Winding among the rocky cliffs, views of Flat Top, a keyhole, and some beautiful blooming wildflowers kept the hike interesting and varied.
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Tonopah and Goldfield, Nevada
The KOA campground in Ely was filled with vehicles and machines from the late 1800’s and provided some interesting views of the nearby mountain ranges that spurred gold and silver fever followed by copper and uranium mining. The central area of Nevada is very sparsely populated and traversed by lonely roads and abandoned railroad beds. The next two towns we encountered are somewhat famous with the paranormal enthusiasts for ghost sightings and haunted locations – Tonopah and Goldfield. Tonopah was once the Queen of the silver mining camps but now has two haunted hotels – the Victorian style Mizpah Hotel and the (creepy) Clown Motel. Goldfield, as its name suggests, was founded during the 1902 gold rush and is now America’s most haunted “living” ghost town. Many of the original buildings include saloons, school, fire station, courthouse as well as several mines. A few unique art installations and wild burros are located in the desert terrain surrounding this heritage site.
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With night time temperatures nearing freezing, we left the higher elevations of the Basin and Range and headed toward the Mojave Desert and back to Pahrump.
CAMPGROUND REVIEW: KOA ELY
We stayed at the KOA – Ely campground in Nevada for four days in a pull thru FHU site. Extra long and wide gravel site located near the front of the property with picnic table and fire ring, no shade or grass, and fence rail between sites. Utilities were new and fully functional. Sites closer to the office were shaded. Restrooms and showers were clean. This is a large property with lots of antique mining/pioneer equipment decorating the space. Tipis and cabins are available to rent. They have a small convenience store on site which sells beer and liquor as well. Under an hour to Great Basin National Park, the KOA is close to several hiking and off-road trails. Easy access from Hwy 93 with little to no road noise at the site. We look forward to staying here again.
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