For the next several months, we’ll be traveling to historic mines and ghost towns of the West. Inspired by Stanley Paher’s “Desert Atlas,” and Nell Murbarger’s photographic journalism, we will be seeking out the ruins of ghost towns, desert communities, railroads, and abandoned gold, silver, and other precious mineral and metal mines in Nevada and the border towns in California and Arizona. In Nevada, there are over 210 abandoned towns, alone! We’re not quite sure what to expect as we travel off the beaten path into the early frontier days of the wild west, but we are hoping to discover some of the gold-rush era mystic wherever it remains.

Oatman, AZ

Beyond the southern tip of Nevada, in the northwest corner of Arizona, along old Route 66, is the old gold mining town of Oatman. The Tom Reed mine operated until 1940 and produced much of the district’s $36 miliion in gold. Over 100 people still live here, in addition to many wild burros roaming the streets. The shops even sell burro biscuits to feed the delightful beasts. At the north end of town, the famous “Sidewinder Highway” traverses the canyon with over 191 turns on the way to an old gas station at Cool Springs. This was the site of several Hollywood movies and the inspiration for scenes in the animated work, “Cars.”

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Old Spanish Trail to desert oddities

One thing is for certain as we travel throughout the deserts of the southwest…you never know what you’ll find next! Following the Old Spanish Trail towards the Nevada – California border, we came to Cathedral Canyon. This roadside attraction was originally designed and built in the 1970’s by a Las Vegas lawyer as a religious sanctuary, but now lays in neglected ruins. The slot canyon was decorated with religious icons, paintings, sculptures, and scripture verses etched on the walls as well as a swinging bridge, grand staircases, and ambient lighting. Only a few remnants remain of its former glory due to extensive vandalism following the death of the caretaker in the mid 1990’s. It was eerie and compelling to see. At one end of the canyon is the grave of the famous outlaw Native-American, Quehoe, who is said to be Nevada’s first mass murderer. On the grave are the words, “He survived alone.”

The desert town of Crystal is not a ghost town, but does contain two abandoned brothels that were in service as recent as 2005. In addition, the saloon and visitor center had received extensive damage from what appeared to be a roof cave-in, and were also abandoned. Let’s just say that the owners of the few inhabited properties in town keep a close watch on their neighborhood and don’t seem to take too kindly to strangers…

Where would the Old Spanish Trail lead if not in search of El Dorado? At the Noonday Camp ruins, just over the border in Tecopa, CA, we could see some remnants of the mill, tanks, and equipment used by the Anaconda Copper Company in the 1940’s.

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China Ranch Date Farm and Amargosa River Trail

Descending through a canyon to the China Ranch, the dirt road twists through vertical sandstone walls topped with spires and arches until it enters the oasis formed by the Amargosa River. Hundreds of date palms were planted in the early 1900’s and supply dates throughout the world. Originally, the Ranch was built by a former Death Valley Borax mine worker, Ah Foo, and became a successful supply post known as “the Chinaman’s Ranch.” Forced off the property at gunpoint, the Ranch then became the possession of the outlaw, Morrison. By then, the Tecoma & Tidewater railroad was transporting ore and minerals through the area. As the mining dwindled, the Brown family purchased the Ranch and have managed it ever since.

At one end of the property is the trailhead to the Amargosa River Trail. The trail follows the abandoned railroad bed of the T&T, past rusting and rotting artifacts of the mining and shipping businesses once operating in the harsh conditions of the Mojave Desert. Hundreds of prospectors on their way to the gold fields in California in 1849 used the trails as an alternative route to avoid Donner Pass. We hiked early in the morning to mitigate the scorching temperatures that reached over 100 degrees that day. The famous China Ranch date shakes were the perfect treat for the desert heat!

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Johnnie Mine District

Near the northwestern side of the Spring Mountains, the rugged ATV trails lead to the Johnnie Mining district where company mines and placer mining occurred through the 1960’s. Of the 570 mining claims filed for the area, 272 are still listed as active. Gold, silver, and lead were the main mining ores but the take was minor. The remoteness of the area, harsh conditions, and lack of railroad all contributed to the lackluster performance of the mines. A technique called “dry-washing” was the prominent method for sifting for gold. We were surprised by the amount of open mine shafts we found. On a distant hill, we were pleased to encounter a small group of wild burros and hear their braying in the distance.

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Our travels with be taking us north towards the regions of the “Mother Lode”. Join us as we explore more Old Mines and Ghost Towns by following abandoned railroads, Pony Express routes, and stagecoach lines of the old West.

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One of our favorite places we stayed in this area was near Oatman, AZ at the Moon River RV Park. Here’s our review:

CAMPGROUND REVIEW: MOON RIVER RV PARK, MOHAVE VALLEY, AZ

An older park, Moon River is well maintained and offers shade, quiet and easy access to Hwy 95. We stayed in Site #51 which was a gravel, pull thru, and full hook-up. No picnic table or fire ring at the site. We had to use one level block on the passenger side. Clubhouse, small pool, laundry, restrooms and showers are on site. The restrooms were cleaned quickly and thoroughly. There were a lot of snowbirds, but they were very friendly and welcoming. Recreation and shopping abound in nearby Laughlin, NV and at the Colorado River. Our favorite restaurant was El Serrano. The Avi Casino is minutes away as well.

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Next up…Old Mines and Ghost Towns, Part 2

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