Wildfires were burning along the Nevada and California border when it was time for us to leave Dayton, NV and head west into the Sierra Mountains. We were consulting the “Watch Duty” app on our phones almost hourly to monitor the huge Park Fire that was about 50 miles north of our next destination and the Crozier Fire which was about 50 miles south of the campground. We had to make a go or no-go decision. We considered the rate and direction of growth for both these fires and felt we would be safe from both the flames and smoke. We were also looking forward to relief from the 100 degree temperatures we had been in for over six weeks and the mountains were reporting 20 degrees cooler. What we didn’t know at the time was that two new fires would explode a few days later and completely shut down I-80 and our next campground.
Emigrant Pass, California
The route we were traveling passed through Reno, the historic Donner Pass, and into Emigrant Gap. Reno’s sky was filled with smoke as we drove through and Donner Pass was backed up for miles due to the fires. We were beginning to question our decision to keep to the itinerary. I-80 follows along what historically was known as the California Trail which was used to travel to San Francisco in the mid-1800’s. A group of emigrants from Illinois, known as the Donner Party, suffered extreme hardships and death while stranded at this pass during the winter of 1846-47. The Donner Pass still proves troublesome as we would soon learn. Arriving at our campground at Emigrant Pass, the temperature was a comfortable 81 degrees at an elevation of 5700 ft. and the skies were clear.
However, smoke from the distant fires was already on the horizon when we began our hike the next morning to Snowflower Lake. Needless to say, the pine trees and lush plant life were a welcome change from the desert!
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Our site in the rustic campground was a cool and shady spot among the pines… the perfect place for enjoying coffee in the morning and cooking out on the Coleman stove. The bathrooms were an adventure. Frogs dominated the showers in the women’s side but were beloved and revered by the long term campers. I’ve seen spiders, crickets, beetles, and various insects as well as a harmless little snake in showers before, but the frogs were a little too much for my nerves! There were no frogs in the men’s room…why? LOL.
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That evening, a new fire broke out near Donner Pass which closed down I-80. Additionally, the fire to the south of us was spreading to within 20 miles of our campground. It seemed like the fires were slowly closing in on us. While we were studying the optional routes available to us, we received word that the campground we were to move to next, Gold Ranch, had been evacuated due to another new fire that raged up to the edge of their property. We were able to extend our stay for two more nights at the current campground while we watched and waited for the highway and RV park to clear.
The smell of smoke was strong that night, but by morning the two new fires had been brought to 80% containment and the highway was open again. We had to wait one more night until power was restored at Gold Ranch before we could move there.
Verdi, Nevada
Verdi, NV is located on the border of California. As a matter of fact, when we hiked into the canyons behind Gold Ranch RV Park, we would cross into California. We also were able to see the wildfire damage and pink fire retardant in the hills across the highway from the campground. Being able to hike directly from the campsite is one of our favorite perks.
When you spend a lot of time in the wilderness, weird things sometimes happen. Setting out from camp one morning, we headed towards the distant mountains. At the top of a steep hill, we saw what looked to be a perfect rock altar for human sacrifice, or at least we were reminded of those ancient tribal rites from thousands of years ago. So, we played around with that theme and had some laughs. Let’s just say that the spirits of the mountains were not pleased. When it was time to head back, as we hiked up a canyon, what looked like only a modest patch of manzanita brush quickly became a nightmare of shoulder high bushes with dense, stiff thorny branches. We were cut and torn and bleeding. A steep cliff blocked us from reaching a lovely grove of pine trees that had seemed easily accessible from our hilltop. Needless to say, we had to turn back, and the horror continued until we finally made it out, totally exhausted. FAFO!
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Not permanently daunted, we returned to the foothills a few days later to explore the other side of the canyon. Although the going was easier, the mountain spirits were still peeved and played more tricks on us. We lost some equipment (which we never do) and had to backtrack through steep rocky hillsides in an unsuccessful search for the missing item. However, the area was beautiful with a variety of plants and views to enjoy as we wandered about.
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Reno, Nevada
Reno is known as “The Biggest Little City in the World.” Once a mining town and agricultural center, Reno has maintained its railroad hub on the Transcontinental Railroad. Many freight trains and Amtrak passenger trains still move along the picturesque Humboldt River and highway today. From the early 1900’s, Reno was known for easy divorce laws and many celebrities and others flocked to the city to take advantage of the minimal requirements for residency and subsequent filing. The quickie divorces were known as the “six week cure.” The big hotels and casinos brought in tourists and the 99 cent buffet was king. Today, Reno is a sprawling area with vast amounts of retail stores and restaurants. The Cabela’s/Bass Pro Shop’s animal trophy display rivaled most natural history museums. We enjoyed some lovely meals at the GSR Casino and tried our luck at our favorite game – bubble craps. We noticed an influx of hippie travelers in a variety of rented and customized rigs. The stores were stockpiling gallons of water, tents, and camping supplies of every kind. It was “Burning Man” migration season! We met many “burners” from several different countries on their way to the gigantic festival in the Black Rock Desert and had fun watching their preparations. A super friendly and talented artist from Holland camped next to us as she got ready to attend her 10th Burn.
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Having spent enough time in “the biggest little city,” it was time to return to the mines and ghost towns. We headed south, away from the wildfires, towards the Old Spanish Trail in search of fossils, stagecoach tracks, and more prospecting ruins.
Campground Review: Gold Ranch RV Park
We stayed at the Gold Ranch RV Resort located in Verdi, Nevada for two weeks in a full-hook up, back-in site. The asphalt site had large grassy side and back yards with a picnic table. Swimming pool and hot tub were adjacent to the office building which also included a lounge, individual showers/bathrooms, and laundry room. The facility was kept clean and locked. Also on the property was a busy gas station, specialty coffee shop, full service restaurant, and a small casino and bar. Highway noise was minimal but there was a level of noise coming from the gas station and pool from about 8am-8pm. Sites located farther away from the office building were much quieter. The park offered great hiking from the back of the campground, easy access to and from I-80, and Reno was about 15 min away. We would return here whenever traveling in the Reno/Sparks area.
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Next up…Old Mines and Ghost Towns Part 7 of 8
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